Brew Week gives beer fine-wine treatment

The Columbus Dispatch
July 16, 2008

By Jill Laster

Many folks claim to be beer experts, but only one has the official title during Ohio Brew Week in Athens.

Oak Room bartender Kevin Smith will teach four classes on the basics of beer tasting during the six-day festival, through Saturday.

"Beer's really taking over where wine was 10 years ago -- tasting wine, competing with wine, cooking with wine," he said. "Beer isn't completely taking over, but it's putting its foot in the door."

Brew Week, which began Monday, also features a contest for home-brews, samples from 26 beer makers in Ohio and a Brew BQ Cook-Off showcasing sauces made with beer.

Smith recently talked about the art of beer enjoyment.

Q: What's the best way to get into beer tasting?

A: The more beers you try, the more you discover what you like. It's like, when you eat a dish, little things like herbs give it flavor. It takes time, but you can taste the flavors in beer.

Q: How do you "taste" beer?

A: I'll take a small sip and move it around in my mouth to get a feel for how heavy it is. I'll also put it through the front of my mouth to release the bubbles and flavors.

Q: To what do you pay attention when drinking a beer?

A: The darker it is, the closer to room temperature it should be. That way, you can taste the flavors. Also, most people completely negate the head of the beer. You want half an inch of foam because those little bubbles release aroma that lets you know the quality of the beer, how fresh it is.

Q: Does beer need to age like wine?

A: Some beers need to sit on a shelf. I make a beer that takes six to nine months. The freshness depends on the beer itself.

Q: How do you match beers with foods?

A: With your heavier dishes, like a steak, I would drink a darker beer or a pale ale. I think hefeweizen (German wheat beer) goes well with fish because most of your chefs are going to be topping dishes with lemon. Poultry goes well with a pale ale or Indian pale ale because it has a light, flowery taste.

Q: What foods can you cook with beer?

A: Your imagination is the limit. Me, when I'm making corn, I'll pour a bottle of beer in my pot along with salt, cracked pepper, some garlic and butter.

Q: Do you have a favorite summertime beer?

A: Raspberry Wheat from the Elevator (in Columbus). It has a really nice lightness.

Q: What are some of your favorite darker beers?

A: Jackie O's (in Athens) has a scotch ale that's just fantastic. It's a blend between scotch and a dark beer. Also, Great Lakes (Brewing Co., in Cleveland) makes a nice dark beer.

Q: And lighter beers?

A: Maumee Bay, right up there in Sandusky. They have an Indian pale ale that's one of the best I've had at Ohio Brew Week.

Q: Is brewing beer difficult?

A: For the most part, it's just like cooking: You follow the recipe and hope it turns out right.

It cost me $100, $150 to get started. It's a great learning experience; you learn more about the process -- what goes wrong and what goes right with beer.

Q: What advantage does a homemade beer or a local brew have over bigger brands?

A: Microbreweries have the luxury of trying new things. You'll see a lot more seasonals instead of the same recipe you've seen for 100 years. You'll get the better taste.

If you go

Through Saturday, Ohio Brew Week will host a variety of events, including the "Meet the Brewer" series, free one-hour discussions with Ohio brewers; and formal tastings with "beer expert" Kevin Smith and Eric Bean of the Columbus Brewing Co., which cost $13 apiece.

For a complete schedule of events and to purchase tickets, visit ohiobrewweek.com.

Here are a few highlights:

Tonight

Thursday

Friday

Saturday

Favorite beers

Beer expert Kevin Smith said it's hard to say one beer is the best, but there are a few good brews fans should check out -- some available in local stores, some at Ohio breweries. Here are Smith's top 10 picks: